國際單車日特稿／作者：Dr. Olly Powell／翻譯：薛郁欣

我後來發現，是因為這裡伏特加的價位跟罐裝水一樣，酒醉駕車幾乎是個嚴重的常態問題。我們常常看到醉漢鑽入車子裡開走車的畫面......

七月初，我們度過了難忘的滿是腳踏車的新疆24天之後，從地理的角度上來說，我們進入中亞，稍後我們就會進入炎熱的沙漠，吃著美味的葡萄，路上的景物開始改變，我們通常都開在高速公路上，在只有四輪車的道路上，我們是不被允許的；不過，除了高速公路，其他的道路都破敗不堪。另外，收費亭不再會有單車道，而私家車也逐漸變的比大卡車還多。

塔里木盆地此處，是大陸石油的主要產地，我們沿途經過數個正在鑽油的鐵塔，天然氣火燄，還有數不盡的石化煉油廠。途經新疆中部的庫爾勒城市之後，有個小城市是由巨大的石化廠所組成；兩公里的路程當中就有24個石化煉油廠！

剛剛我們還期待能夠看到三輪車載運著西瓜的畫面，然而所見的是驢子拉著貨架的景象。如果正是市集的日子，就會看到成群排隊的驢兒優雅的踢踏進城。繼續往西行，我們逐漸拉高海拔進入天山境內，路上出現了越來越多的駱駝。然而這些是食用的駱駝，不是運輸用的。這個經典的絲路上的駱駝商隊畫面，現在卻出現在餐廳的正門口；取而代之是結隊駛向吉爾吉斯坦的重型卡車。

前往吉爾吉斯的道路已經頹圮到卡車司機寧願選擇鄰近的農田，才能繼續行駛。而駱駝已經變成後面載著瓜的俄羅斯車子了，大陸牌的車子已經消失，大中亞的城市到處是從德國來的舊型轎車──那些已經十年以上，馬力過大的奧迪與賓士車。很顯然的，中亞已經變成德國垃圾的集散中心了。說到駕駛現象，是難以置信的危機重重、即使路面完全沒有坑洞，它們仍舊會到處亂衝，更危險的是，它們經常會越過雙線邊界，或是隨著我們而駛上對向車道，後來在我身後竟然有三台轎車同時競逐在兩線道上！

我後來發現，是因為這裡伏特加的價位跟罐裝水一樣，酒醉駕車幾乎是個嚴重的常態問題。我們常常看到醉漢鑽入車子裡開走車的畫面。

我們在這裡發生了第一次的車禍。

卡車司機常常會用石頭阻著輪胎，以防這些煞車系統不太靈光的卡車溜走，不過他們總是忘了把這些大石頭移開路面。於是，正當我用時速45公里前進的時候，就被這些大石頭們給絆倒了。單車車叉往後彎曲5公分，車圈受損；而我全身瘀青，有幾處流血的傷口。但是我們簡單的處理一下就繼續上路。

進入哈薩克境內，這邊的騎士沒有更友善：在一個烈日當頭的日子裡，有個路過的警察先生給了我ㄧ杯伏特加！靠近哈薩克回教Taraz城市，我正想拿相機拍下兩台轎車超過卡車的畫面，一邊一台的從狹小的道路邊緣穿過，而在十秒鐘前，才有一台休旅車失控的衝向路肩，從那個邊緣穿過。稍後我就被汽車從後頭撞了，挫傷了我的手臂。但是這些駕駛人都認為：單車應該走在柏油路外面的石子路上。

然而，大部分的哈薩克人都對我們非常非常的友善，我們的精神得以維持高昂的狀態。經過三週與這裡強風，列日，在蒙古高原還有不同的路況之下我們抵達了俄羅斯。

不過俄羅斯的駕駛人完全沒有更好，甚至還開的更快。我們只剩下三十八天就會抵達巴黎，只要度過這十天在俄羅斯的日子。而我們的車輪都有受損，車叉仍然還沒修復。我們咬緊牙關的希望前方有平順寧靜的自行車道等著我們......。

On the 3rd of July, after a memorable 24 days in the kingdom of bicycles, we crossed the mountains that divide Xinjiang from Eastern China. From a physical geographic viewpoint, we entered central Asia. Soon we were crossing hot dry deserts, and eating delicious raisins, dates and round flat Xinjiang nan.

On the road things began to change. We often rode on expressways that(officially) do not allow bicycles. The other roads had been destroyed. Toll booths no longer had convenient bicycle lanes, and private cars became more numerous than trucks.

The region was home to the Tarim basin, that supplies much of China's oil. We rode past working oil derricks, gas flares and massive petrochemical refineries. There was a small town just after Korla that consisted entirely of gigantic petrol stations. We counted 24 petrol stations in the space of just 2km!

Where before we would have expected to see a single-speed tricycle carrying watermelons, there were now carts towed by donkey. On market days there were long lines of donkeys trotting gracefully into town.

Continuing west we ascended into the Tien Shan mountain range and saw increasing numbers of camels. However these were for meat, not transport. The classic silk road images of camel caravans exist only on the facades of restaurants. Products from China were moved into Kyrgyzstan by long lines of heavy trucks.

On entering Kyrgyzstan the road deteriorated to the point where most other vehicles actually gave up and drove through adjacent fields. Donkeys were replaced by people selling melons from the back of ancient Russian cars. Chinese car brands disappeared.

Central Asia now buys old cars from Germany. Roads were full of ten-year-old, overpowered Audi and Mercedes vehicles.

Apparently central Asia has become the duping ground for Germany's trash.

Driving habits here were unbelievably dangerous. Cars would weave all over roads, even when there were no potholes to avoid. They often overtake on blind corners, or with us coming in the other direction without sufficient space. It was the first time I saw a wall of three cars racing toward me, on a narrow two lane road.

Vodka here costs about the same as bottled water, and drunk driving is a big problem. We often saw drunk people getting into cars and driving away.

We had our first accident in Kyrgyzstan. Truck drivers here place large rocks under their tires in caseof brake failure, but often don't remove them later. At 45km/h I crashed into one of these. My forks were bent back 50mm, front rim damaged and I had many bruises and bloody scratches. But we made some adjustments and continued.

In Kazakhstan the roads and driving habits were no better. On one occasion, under the hot desert sun, I was actually offered a glass of vodka by a passing police car! Near Taraz, I managed to capture a photo of two cars overtaking a truck, one on each side, at a corner of a narrow road. Only ten seconds earlier, on the same corner, an SUV had spun out of control and crossed the shoulder where I usually cycle.

Later I was hit by a car from behind, and bruised my arm. Like many others, this driver thought bikes should ride in the soft gravel next to the road.

But overall most people in Kazakhstan were amazingly good to us, our spirits remained high. After three weeks of fighting headwinds, hot sun of the Mongolian steppe and difficult roads we made it to Russia.

Here in Russia the drivers are even worse, and much faster. We have just 38 days left to reach Paris, another ten in Russia. All four of our wheels have cracks, and my forks are still damaged. We're holding our breath and hoping there are nice smooth quiet cycle paths waiting for us further west!

Written by Dr. Olly Powell